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26 Jun 2018

Biking from Nottingham to Gernika? Are you crazy?

By basque

Biking in the Basque Country…….

Eight friends, all with a Nottingham connection, and all biking fans. Some of them had been here before for work and holidays and knew that cycling was big news here. How were they going to get together for a long weekend trip to discover some more of the mythical roads and hills that the Basque Country had hidden away? They had seen the stages in the Pyrenees in the Tour de France, and the Tour of the Basque Country, but how to get it off the ground? And just as importantly, they wanted it to be more than just cycling, they wanted food, drink and a few laughs….

So it was with interest that in Autumn 2017 I received an email regarding putting together a unique tour here. I am not a biker, but arrange all manner of bespoke trips, and the thought of of curating a made-to-measure tour for 8 keen cyclists from the UK got me excited. However, it wasn’t just the biking, the clients wanted me to create something that combined time in the saddle with beautiful places & local traditions. A chance to show off our cuisine, our landscape and our hospitality. A true Tour of the Basque Country.

Cycling, biking, riding, however you call it, it always been big here in the Basque Country. Tour de France winners? Check. Stages of the Tour de France? Check. Long tradition of biking? Check. Varied terrain and excellent surfaces? Check…

Four night tour

Accommodation was organised months in advance. This level or preparedness is essential to ensure a smooth running tour, always! A mix of locations, and styles of beds just adds to the experience. From Camino de Santiago hostels to 4* hotels, we had it all covered. What about my bike? I hear you ask. Well, all spots were chosen with secure storage for your pride and joy uppermost in our selection criteria. Its the little details see…

On the road

Tour design and profile is essential, especially for a mixed group such as this. Routes were chosen in combination with the accommodation, distances, elevation, and activities post-biking. We decided on a post-to-post style tour to give variety and a different feel to everyday. A single base is also an option of course. It allows for less morning prep time, but doesn’t have the feel of a tour. In terms of bikes, it was a mix of own-bikes and rented. We used our good friends at Bizkairoute for the excellent hire bikes, and the GPS/Garmin/Strava apps to enable our riders to see where they were going! In addition we had a ‘Broom Wagon’ to carry all the bike boxes, luggage, spares, drinks etc. Essential on a biking tour in a new location.

The Tour

A long weekend starting on Thursday saw our group of 8 enthusiasts visit a Txoko, a members-only dining club if you will, in the famous town of Gernika. The ritual of preparing food and dining together in the txoko here is a almost a religious thing, so as a visitor it rarely gets seen… It also meant the riders would be fully loaded for the days ahead….

Friday saw us embark from the hostel with San Sebastián as our destination. The route of saw us cover 115km along gorgeous coastal roads with little or no traffic. A couple of decent climbs and elevation of 1,900m, that included Itziar and Mendizorrotz. Passing through the Urdaibai Nature reserve, the villages of Lekeitio, Ondarroa, Deba and into San Sebastian was as one of the riders said afterwards. The best day’s riding I have ever done….

San Sebastian was a welcome respite from the long day in the saddle. Ice-cold beers, a beautiful beach and cool sea to soothe weary legs… Dinner was taken up in a Cider House another great Basque tradition, off-limits to all but the most ‘in-the-know’ travellers. Cider; free flowing, steaks, salt cod all delicious and served on long tables.. the tired legs were a memory…

Heading Inland

A spritely start saw us head east and inland into the interior of the green Basque Country. Sunny start, but the weather soon became Basque with a couple of heavy downpours, adding to the biking experience! A day of 90km, and 1,800m elevation into the the charming Basque village of Elizondo, nestled in the lush Pyrenean foothills. Climbs included Cat 2s Aritxulegi and Agiña. A great traditional lunch followed by an evening of laughs, Gin Tonics and a carb-laden dinner saw everyone happy to bed.

Pyrenees

Riders from the world over know these mountains. Harsh, rugged and with very unpredictable weather, they play a major part in the Tour de France every year. Cyclists such as 5-time Tour winner Indurain hailed from here. The Sky Team were spotted on the road here on another of our tours only days later…. Its big country.

Our final day saw us leave the threatening skies over Elizondo and head east up and over the Cat 2 Col de Izpegi and into France! Some incredible mountain views were taken in before we rolled down into Baigorri, St Jean Pied de Port, and the Camino de Santiago. The border into Spain took us up to the Cat 1 Alto de Ibañeta at 1,062m, and the lovely ride down into Pamplona, city of the Running of the Bulls and Ernest Hemingway! Overall a leg of 113km and climbs totalling 2,100m, the riders were over the moon!! A short biking tour of the Basque Country, into Navarra and the Pyrenees, all rounded off in the great 4* Hotel Maisonnave in Pamplona!!

Next Year.. 2019

Well of course!! We are early in the planning stagess for Basque Country Biking Tour II. Its something that was so successful that we feel we can make this into an event for every year. Great locations, great riding, super meals and the beautiful Basque Country to appreciate.

Speak to me if you fancy organising a similar biking and bike tour across the Basque country, it so much more than just riding here!!

Trip Advisor

Just take a look at the comments left by our clients if you need more convincing….

 

 

  • Biking in the Basque Country
  • basque bike tour
19 Jun 2018

Hiking the Pyrenees and Basque Country

By basque

‘We want to do some hiking in the Pyrenees and the Basque Country’

Hiking said the email. Friends of an old client of ours, Manu Feildel who came to record the TV Show ‘My France with Manu’ in 2015, I couldn’t refuse! 6 friends all the way from Sydney Australia.

Months of organising, hotels, hostels, mountain refuges, transport and guides. The tour was a complete success! Starting in San Sebastian at the Hotel Villa Soro we headed east into the Pyrenees via Pamplona. A night in the Hotel Santa Cristina in Canfranc was followed by a tough days hiking, 24km,  in the Pirineo Occidental National Park.  Tired and very weary the group, which included a professional guide and myself as a driver over-nighted in the Refugio de Lizara. The spas in the great hotels we arranged were a godsend!

Ziga

Day 2 and out of the refuge and a shortish 12km trek keeping to the GR -111 route to the Refugio de Gabardito. Picnic lunches everyday meant that the evening meals were hearty and our evening dinner in the Country House in Ziga was no different. The family-run Zigako Etxezuria was exactly what the doctor ordered. From Ziga we walked for part of the Camino de Santiago through leafy and verdant beech forests for a full-days trek. Finishing in Lanz the beers were cold and well deserved!

San Sebastian

Last day saw us make our way back to San Sebastian. The route out of Osses in France saw us visit Espelette, famous for its peppers and chocolate before having  a light lunch or oysters, sardines and wine in the charming seaside and fishing town of St Jean de Luz. The tour was rounded of with a superb dinner in the Ilunpe Sociedad Gastronomica in San Sebastiáns old town, who counts as a member the chef Martin Berasategui owner of 8 Michelin Stars!

 

  • Hiking Pyrenees
  • Basque Hike
13 Mar 2017

Basque Country Food. Where is it from? pt. 1

By basque

Basque Country Food…

Food… Hopefully you will have heard about some of the great dishes we prepare here in the Basque Country (there are a few pointers on this blog…) But have you ever wondered where the produce comes from? Accompanied by our friend Jose Pizarro, a restaurant owner from Caceres in Spain, but who lives and owns 3 restaurants in London, we set out over 2 days to discover some hidden gems…

Food research

Spring is in the the air and everything is coming back to life… In the green hills of Gipuzkoa, magic is at work. Txakoli vines are beginning to sprout and the anchovies are arriving in our waters, but some plants are already flowering and bearing fruit and in some cases vegetables.

The tear-shaped pea is an unknown quantity pretty much everywhere. However here, and in the best restaurants in Spain, it commands a seat at the head table. On a sunny day like today, seeing them on the vines and growing in their tiny pods, well, its a luxury!

Its not only the green things either, Further up in the hills is  a little family-run farm that breeds Euskal Txarri, a rare- breed of Basque Pig. Here the father and daughter team produce award winning sausages, hams, black puddings and bacon. A visit to them is an insight into this tasty world!

Basque Culinary Center

The Basque Culinary  Center was  next on our list as THE place to see when talking about food research here, indeed anywhere in the world. The BCC is a unique faculty and part of the University of the Basque Country, the only such faculty in the world. Dedicated to research and development for all things Culinary….

Dining

No visit to the Basque Country is complete without dining in a Txoko or Sociedad Gastronomika. A private dining club if you like where only members are allowed to cook….  Tales of the dinners and diners are legendary here in the Basque Country. So visiting one on Saturday afternoon was the perfect finale to a bust day discovering and learning about our produce.

Have a look at our fotos and a short video

Basque Experiences. Private Basque Country Tours

 

Sociedad Gastronomika 

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    Basque Peas

    The tear-shaped peas of Getaria
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    Best office in the world?
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    Basque Experiences

    Basque Experiences
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22 Dec 2016

Gipuzkoa and the Basque Country

By basque

Hills of Gipuzkoa, Basque Country

Hidden away up the the green and verdant hills in the Basque Province of Gipuzkoa, one finds a thriving and rich society, a world away from the city of San Sebastián only a short drive away…

Goierri

The hinterland of Gipuzkoa is hilly, there are a few mountains but generally its a green land, full of valleys separated by peaks. This area is called Goierri, and it has an ancient history. Basque culture is stronger here than anywhere else one could say. The locals all speak Basque, all the time, the traditions and the history are omnipresent. The charming small villages dotted around the land are only outnumbered by the baserris or large old stone and timber farmhouses perched higher up on these green and lush hillsides. Hidden away it feels like time has stood still here until you scratch the surface!

Local Produce

Our Basque Culture is true to its roots. Tradition, family, respect and language are all fundamental. However, throughout history, we Basques have adapted and embraced change, and in some cases influenced it!

A Basque Country Tour would be incomplete without a visit to this rich area. Take a six-day hike along the ‘Ruta de Queso’ visiting tiny villages, running streams, mountains, cheese-makers and cider producers. A great way to learn about the region from the locals and their customs. A shorter Basque Tour could involve a visit to an Idiazabal cheese-maker in the village of Segura. The Ondarre farmhouse has been making this cheese from raw ‘Latxa’ sheep milk for 7 generations, and their house is over 500 years old! Not only can you milk the sheep and learn the process, you can stay there too as they have 6 rooms and 2, 4-bed apartments!

Cider

Cider makers abound in this area and a day’s visit would be incomplete without learning (and tasting of course) the regions favourite tipple . From here lunch in a Sagardotegi or Cider House is obligatory!!!

For those more interested in a slightly more refined dining experience a visit to one of the areas superb local-produce markets would be indispensible! Wednesdays in Ordizia ia a market where locals have been bringing their produce, all seasonal of course as that’s how we have always done it here, in fact every Wednesday since the 16th century to be exact…. Saturday sees Tolosa show its wares in a two amazing markets in what was the former capital of Gipuzkoa. Even better, make your Basque Country Tour more complete by visiting the market with a local chef. With them, see how they select the best and then accompany them to cook it yourselves!! Not only learning to cook like a Basque, but eating like one too!! We can’t wait to take you around!!!!

  • Tolosa Market Gipuzkoa
  • Ondarre lambs Gipuzkoa
  • cider museum gipuzkoa
  • Cooking in Ordizia Gipuzkoa
  • Segura Gipuzkoa
  • ondarre gipuzkoa
15 Nov 2016

BBC Radio and Txoko – Basque Dining Clubs

By basque

Txoko – Cooking Clubs in Basqueland – BBC Radio 4

The Txoko – A truly fantastic programme transmitted by BBC Radio 4 ‘The Food Programme ‘ on Sunday 13 November.

https://player.fm/series/food-programme/cooking-clubs-in-basqueland

or try this…. http://www.bbc.co.uk/programmes/b0829dcq#play

This made my day when I heard it earlier, a perfect, well written and researched programme by the BBC none the less on one of the things that I love so much about my Basque Country. A real insight into what a Txoko is, and what happens in them. Some great history and context from some real experts such as Heston Blumenthal (I didnt realise he felt so at home here!!) and the author Mark Kurlansky.

Basque Experiences

Sometimes I wish more of the world knew about what we are like here and what it means to be Basque. Mark Kurlansky makes a couple of good points when he says there is ‘a desire to have their own special way of doing things’ –  ‘they need to be allowed to be who they are’….that is so Basque!!

This goes a little bit of the way, although they didn’t mention the reason why they started. In many cases they were similar to trade guilds seen in the City of London. Centuries ago, men who worked in a similar trade would come together to meet, discuss business in the towns on market days. These men would cook and dine together and more often than not stay the night! So the txoko or dining society was born!!

For me its one of the best plans we can show you here in the Basque Country. If you want to see it in the flesh, well, you know who to get in touch with!! http://basqueexperiences.com/be-delicious/ Basque Tour.

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